Die E11-staproete is 'n 2 560 km stap sleep in Europa deur die Nederland, Duitsland en Pole. Dit is een van die elf voetpaadjies gekoördineer deur die Europese Ramblers-organisasie (ERA), ook bekend as (Duitse) Europäische Wandervereinigung (EWV) en (Franse) Féderation Européenne de la Randonnée Pédestre (FERP).
Die daaglikse bestuur van die roete, vanaf merk na herleiding, word uitgevoer deur die Nederlandse nasionale rampokkerorganisasie Wandelnet, 'n kwango- en sambreelorganisasie van Nederlandse kloppers, sommige Duitse streekorganisasies en die Poolse nasionale staporganisasie PTTK. In Nederland en Wes-Duitsland volg E11 streekspaadjies (meestal ongeskik vir ander vervoermiddels); oos van die Harz berge, die E11 is ontwerp na die val van die ystergordyn, en kan ook per fiets bedek word; en in Pole is E11 'n samevoeging van kleiner en groter dele van plaaslike en streeksroetes wat 'n mens te voet of in die saal kan volg.
Afgesien van die Harz-berge, loop die E11 slegs deur plat of rollende land. Baie dele is bedek met bos of ten minste kommersiële hout, maar oop landbou- en ongebruikte grond is daar. Wes-Duitsland word gekruis op 'n reeks lae heuwels wat gedurende die laaste ystydperk ongeveer 12 000 jaar gelede ontstaan het. Na die Harz-berge word amper geen hoogte opgemerk nie. E11 volg gereeld waterweë vir 'n geruime tyd en kruis dit met 'n veerboot of 'n brug, en soms moet mere omring word, byvoorbeeld in Masurië in Pole. Onder die riviere wat gevolg en oorgesteek is, is die IJssel in Nederland, die Elbe en Havel in Duitsland, die Oder of Odra op die grens van Duitsland en Pole, en die Vistula (Wisła) in Pole.
Verstaan
E11 het in 1980 ontstaan uit 'n string kort Duitse paaie as 'n internasionale roete tussen die susterstede van Haarlem in Nederland en Osnabrück in Duitsland en is onmiddellik uitgebrei na die Harz-gebergte. Na die val van die ystergordyn het E11 een van die vele maniere geword om die integrasie van Wes- en voorheen Oostelike, tans Sentraal-Europa, te stimuleer. Dit is waarom dit in die negentigerjare na Berlyn en daarna Pole verleng is. Soos die opeenhoping rondom Amsterdam het dit onmoontlik gemaak om 'n aangename roete van te hou Haarlem, is die begin verskuif na Scheveningen. Op plaaslike internasionale vlak het Euregio die stuk tussen begin benut Deventer in Nederland en Osnabrück in Duitsland op 'n kommersiële manier in die hoop om sy pogings om die bevolking aan beide kante van die internasionale grens nader aan mekaar te bring, te ondersteun.
Etniese en historiese verskille is opvallend langs die baan. Die openheid van die landskap van Wes-Nederland (Holland), die ryk landbou meer in die Ooste, die landmerke van groot Pruisiese landgoede en hul eindelose landerye, wat gedurende die DDR onderhou of herleef is, en die letsels wat eeue van Duits-Poolse konflik en Duitse en Sowjet-onderdrukking getrek het - dit is almal langs E11 sigbaar. Dit word bevestig deur die feit dat die Poolse deel van E11 meestal in gebiede is wat tot 1918 of selfs 1945 Duits was. Om u opmars langs die E11 meer te geniet, kan u die ensiklopediese artikel oor die E11 Europese langafstandpad in Wikipedia lees, waar U sal ook honderde skakels na die townships langs die E11 vind.
Berei voor
E11 vereis geen voorbereiding buite die norm vir langafstand-stap nie (sien Stap en die gedeelte "Berei voor" van Appalachian Trail). Sorg dat u in 'n goeie liggaamlike toestand is en oor goeie toerusting beskik (moenie goedkoop loopstewels of 'n goedkoop rugsak gebruik nie) en 'n goeie stel kaarte. Sorg ook dat u genoeg kos en water het om uself te onderhou.
In dele van Pole kan die afstande tussen plekke waar u in 'n bed kan slaap (eerder as 'n tent) tot 35 km wees. As u nie lus is om sulke afstande te marsjeer nie (of selfs meer as u wegraak), dra dan 'n tent en slaapsak. Wees voorbereid op reën (en sneeu in die winter) en dra sneldrogende klere as u van plan is om dit tydens u reis te was.
Met behulp van die webwerf van die Duitse spoorwegonderneming DB dit is maklik om E11 in dele af te deel wat haalbaar is in 'n enkele vakansiereis van twee of drie weke. Behalwe vir Den Haag, Slegte Bentheim, Osnabrück, Hannover, Halle (Saale), Berlyn, Frankfurt (Oder), Poznań, Om te hardloop en Olsztyn is stede waarvandaan mens maklik met die trein kan wegkom. Hannover, Berlyn en Poznań bied ook lugdienste aan.
Nadat u bepaal het watter E11-afdelings u gaan loop, sorg dat u al die onderstaande kaarte vir die stuk verkry. Dit sal 'n paar weke neem, indien nie maande nie, aangesien nie alle winkels en uitgewers vinnig reageer nie.
In Nederland en Wes-Duitsland word u gewoonlik verstaan as u in Engels kommunikeer, maar neem basiese woordeskat in Duits en Pools saam as u verder oos gaan. Dit help as u leer om name en ander woorde op die Nederlandse, Duitse, Poolse manier uit te spreek, want 'n uitgesproke Engelstalige aksent is 'n ernstige voorgee as u u pad wil vind of honger het.
Bly veilig
Die grootste gevaar langs die E11 is skaars sigbaar: die regmerkie. Die gevaar is nie soveel by hierdie klein diertjie self nie, alhoewel sy byt soms 'n infeksie kan veroorsaak. Die gevaar is in die parasiete wat dit kan meebring. Langs die hele baan is bekend dat bosluise besmet is (soms tot hoë persentasies) met die Lyme-siekte. Oos van die Harz-gebergte kan hulle ook bosluisoordraagbare meningo-enkefalitis dra. U moet die ooreenstemmende artikels in Wikipedia of elders aandagtig deurlees en u inentings teen bosluisgedraagde meningo-enkefalitis neem voordat u die Harz-gebied of verder oos aandurf. Daar is geen profilakse teen Lyme-siekte nie, maar dit kan met antibiotika genees word as dit vroeg gevang word.
Afgesien van die af en toe ontmoeting met 'n adder, 'n beer, 'n trop wolwe of selfs 'n lynx, of 'n byt van enige soogdier-besmette soogdier, is die pad andersins heeltemal veilig en kan dit selfs in die winter gevolg word, mits 'n mens voldoende geklee is en dra genoeg kos en (warm) drankies saam. Die Poolse winter is lank en koud! As u nie 'n tent dra nie, moet u seker maak dat u afstande van 35 km kan aflê, aangesien verblyf (en bushaltes!) Soms skaars in Pole is.
Gaan in
Die begin van die E11 in Scheveningen is maklik bereikbaar vanuit alle uithoeke van die wêreld: vlieg na Schiphol, die lughawe van Amsterdam, neem een van die baie gereelde treine na "Den Haag CS", een van die treinstasies van Den Haag, en tramweg 9 bring u na die Kurhaus by die plein "Gevers Deynootplein". Dit is ook moontlik om 'n internasionale trein vanaf België of Frankryk te neem Rotterdam en ruil daar vir Den Haag CS. Internasionale treine vanaf Duitsland bied 'n verbinding na Den Haag CS met 'n verandering van treine in Utrecht of Amersfoort. Vanuit Engeland sou 'n mens gewoonlik met 'n vinnige veerboot arriveer vanaf Harwich na die Haak van Holland en volg dan die witrooi gemerkte Europese kuspad E9 na Scheveningen.
Rommelaars vanaf die Verenigde Koninkryk en Ierland, wat die begin van die E11 te voet wil bereik, moet seker maak dat hulle Harwich langs die Essex Way, vanwaar hulle die veerboot moet neem na Haak van Holland en volg dan E9 soos hierbo genoem. Dit is ook moontlik om Scheveningen met dieselfde E9 vanaf Suid-Engeland, Noordwes-Frankryk en die Belgiese kus te bereik. 'N Ander moontlikheid om die Hook van Holland te voet te bereik, is deur E2 (ook bekend as GR 5) van Lekker, die Ooste van Frankryk en byna die hele België.
Terloops, die Gevers Deynootplein voor die Kurhaus is nie die soort plek waar jy jou motor parkeer terwyl jy die 2 500 km van die E11 rondloop nie. Selfs as u 'n gratis parkeerplek kry, sal u 'n paar euro per uur moet betaal.
Loop
Met die uitsondering van die artikel wat u nou lees, is die presiese routering van E11 glad nie in die Engelse taal gedokumenteer nie. As u Nederlands en Duits vloeiend genoeg is, sal u die Hartsberge sonder probleme bereik, maar in Oos-Duitsland en Pole is selfs moeilike vindingryke bronne in die plaaslike tale (Duits en Pools) moeilik. Vir hierdie artikel verkry en vertaal ons 'n Duitse boek wat buite druk is, en flyers en ander dokumente van kantore van wankelende organisasies in Kassel, Praag, Poznan, Torun en Olsztyn, sowel as topografiese kaarte wat plaaslik verkoop word. Sommige afdelings word plaaslik betekenisvol gemerk; ander nie.
E11 in Nederland (355 km)
In Nederland is E11 identies aan die Marskramerpad (Peddlers Way), wat skakels Scheveningen meer as 368 kilometer na die Duitse gemeente Slegte Bentheim. Die laaste 13 km is op Duitse gebied, wat 355 km na die Nederlandse gebied vertrek. Soos die meeste Nederlandse langafstandroetes, word die Marskramerpad bestuur deur Wandelnet waar Wandelnet: "Marskramerpad", red. deur Wandelnet, Amersfoort, 2009, ISBN 9789071068782, 'n gids in Nederlands met baie gedetailleerde kaarte kan gekoop word. Hierdie boekie moet in omgekeerde volgorde gebruik word, dit wil sê die kaart met Scheveningen is die laaste kaart in die gids. Dit kan verklaar waarom die gids se teks verkeerdelik verklaar dat die Nederlandse deel van E11 in die Duitse stad Bad Bentheim begin.
Nederlandse staproetes, insluitend die Marskramerpad, is gewoonlik perfek gemerk. Daar word egter gereeld van roetes verander, soms op 'n belangrike manier, en dit verander word slegs in Nederlands beskryf. In Desember 2012, 55 veranderinge is genoem.
Nie alle veranderinge is klein nie. Een daarvan (tussen Achterveld en Terschuur) beloop 8 km ekstra, bo-op die 360 km wat op die voorblad van die gids genoem word. Daarom is vier kaarte in die boekie ("kaart 42", 42A, 43 en 44) volledig aangepas. Dit is dus raadsaam om die gids te bestel en ook die merke van die Marskramerpad in die veld vir onlangse veranderinge na te gaan. Net op die hoofopskrif van die bladsy vind u vier bottels, waarvan die tweede van links 'n baie gedetailleerde kaart gee van die mees onlangse roete (gebruik die zoomfunksie). Elders op die bladsy vind u 'n knoppie aan die regterkant oornachtingsadressen. As u op die een klik, gee u die adresse van die akkommodasie langs die roete.
Dit is moontlik om 'n GPS-roete van 'n onlangse weergawe van die Marskramerpad. Dit is 'n private publikasie en word nie deur Wandelnet uitgereik of nagegaan nie. Dit dek waarskynlik ook nie alle veranderinge in die routing nie. Om kopieregredes kan hier nie 'n GPS-spoor of 'n presiese beskrywing van die roete gegee word nie, maar die skakels in die volgende paragrawe bied die moontlikheid om meer inligting oor die dorpe langs die roete te vind.
Die Nederlandse gedeelte van E11 kruis vanaf 1 Scheveningen deur die middedorp van 2 Den Haag, draai dan noordoos om by die voormalige koninklike herehuispaleis verby te gaan 3 Huis ten Bosch, gaan voort in die landgoed van 4 Wassenaar, verby die herehuis van Koning Willem-Alexander, verlaat die beboste land om tussen sommige weivelde deur te gaan, gaan die groot dorpie in 5 Voorschoten en gaan voort na die tweede grootste ou middestad van Nederland, die van 6 Leiden. Dit gaan aan 7 Leiderdorp en 8 Zoeterwoude-Rijndijk deur outentieke polders en vleilande verby 9 Hoogmade en deur skilderagtige 10 Woubrugge aan 11 Rijnsaterwoude, die laagste punt van die roete op 5 meter onder seespieël. Daarop gaan dit verby 12 Nieuwveen en 13 Zevenhoven aan 14 Noorden en die stad van 15 Breukelen wat 'n treinstasie het. Na 16 Maartensdijk, verander die natuurskoon van vleilande in beboste duine, waardeur die stad van 17 Amersfoort bereik word. Hier vind u intercity-treine terug na Den Haag en Leiden, na stede soos Osnabrück, Hannover en Berlyn, en as u die baan vir 'n dag wil verlaat, Amsterdam. Amersfoort het egter genoeg om aan te bied vir 'n rusdag.
Na Amersfoort en 18 Leusden, kom die Marskramerpad / E11 in 'n breë nat vallei wat in die vroeë Middeleeue uit moerasse bestaan, maar vanaf 1000 jaar gelede in klein polders verander is. Die roete gaan verby 19 Achterveld, 20 Terschuur en 21 Appel in die streek genoem Gelderse Vallei. Ons is nou in die gemeente van Nijkerk, waar die eerste setlaars van New York Stad kom van (Kiliaen van Rensselaer was 'n handelaar uit Amsterdam, maar sy familie het die nog bestaande plaashuis "Rensselaer" tussen Nijkerk en Putten besit, en hy was so lief vir die plaaslike bevolking dat hy baie van hul seuns na die huidige Manhattan geneem het) .
Hierdie area is ook die poort na die bos en woude van die Veluwe, die grootste gebied bedek met bome in die Nederland. Charmante dorpies soos 22 Stroe en 23 Kootwijk, die voormalige antenntoring van Radio Kootwijk en die townships van 24 Hoenderloo en 25 Beekbergen is menslike bakens in 'n see van bome. Maar dan word die natuurskoon weer oop en nat 26 Klarenbeek (treinstasie) en 27 Voorst geslaag word. Die roete volg nou 'n rukkie die rivier die IJssel, loop onder twee groot brûe met snelweë en neem dan 'n veerboot na die ou stad van 28 Deventer (Onder sekere omstandighede, soos oorstromings of ys op die rivier, gaan die veerboot nie en moet u die IJssel met die tweede brug oorsteek).
Deventer is die eerste dorp in die streek van Salland en die provinsie Overijssel. Afgesien van die opsie om dieselfde intercity-treine te neem as in Amersfoort (sien hierbo), is Deventer miskien 'n ander stad waar u 'n blaaskans neem voordat u die Ooste van Nederland aandurf. Stappers wat deur Deventer ry voordat hulle Duitsland binnestap, kan voordeel trek uit 'n besoek aan die Wandelwinkel, 'n boekwinkel wat spesialiseer in publikasies oor staproetes en verwante buitesport, waar alle Duitse gedetailleerde kaarte in voorraad is. Die winkel is oorkant die Bergkerk (bergkerk; dit is op 'n klein heuweltjie gebou) in die mooiste deel van die stad.
29 Diepenveen, 30 Lettele, 31 Okkenbroek en 32 Espelo is klein dorpies omring deur oop landbougrond, maar die Marskramerpad / E11 klim dan op 'n reeks heuwels naby die stad 33 Holten (trein stasie). Ons betree nou die streek van Twente. Gou word 'n verdere breë vallei met oop velde bereik en die roete kronkel in die rigting van die interessante stad Delden. In plaas daarvan om die stad oor te steek, verkies die pad die skoonheid van die landgoed van 34 Twickel, beteuel dan Noord na 35 Azelo en 36 Zenderen, raak die nuutste woongebiede van 37 Gedra en Hengelo, en slaag 38 Deurningen oppad sjarmant toe 39 Oldenzaal.
Die treinstasie van Oldenzaal is 'n kruispad van langpaadjies, soos die Naoberpad of Noaberpad aan die Nederlandse en Duitse grens, en verskillende Nederlandse roetes. E11 gaan Suidoos voort, vermy verskillende nedersettings in die gebied en kruis uiteindelik die 40 Duitse grens net voor die dorp Gildehaus, 'n deel van Slegte Bentheim. Let op dat die merke verander sodra u Duitse bodem binnekom: die wit-en-rooi merke maak nou plek vir 'n wit T op 'n swart agtergrond. Die laaste 13 kilometer van die Marskramerpad is Duits.
EUREGIO gebruik die oostelike deel van die Marskramerpad en die voortsetting daarvan in Duitsland (wat saam die stuk Deventer - Bad Bentheim - Osnabrück vorm) onder die naam van Handelsweg. Die tweetalige (Nederlandse, Duitse) webwerf bied aflaaie van topkaarte en besprekings van losies en bagasievervoer aan. Hierdie deel van die E11 is 229 km lank. Die naam verwys weer na die smouse van ouds, maar vertaal as "Trade Way".
E11 in Duitsland (996 km)
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Die eerste 13 km in Duitsland, deur 1 Gildehaus en 2 Slegte Bentheim, is nog steeds deel van die Nederlandse Marskramerpad en kan gevind word op kaarte 1 en 2 van die Nederlandse gids. Die tekens dateer uit die tyd dat hierdie gedeelte deel van die Töddenweg was: 'n wit hoofstad T op 'n swart agtergrond. Bad Bentheim is ook die eerste merkwaardige hoogte, in kontras met die plat- en vleilande en af en toe duine van Nederland. Bad Bentheim het 'n interessante kasteel en museum en 'n bekoorlike klein middedorp met 'n spa in die bos naby.
In die res van Duitsland volg E11 'n paar ou streekroetes, veral die Töddenweg, die Wittekindsweg (Widukind's Way) en 'n deel van die Wesergebirgsweg. 'N Oorblyfsel van die Wanderweg Harz - Niederlande (wandelpad Harz - Nederland) en 'n nuutgeskepte roete in die voormalige DDR vorm die res van die E11 in Duitsland. Die paadjie kruis die voormalige Wes-Duitsland op 'n ketting van rante wat van Wes na Oos loop, loop dan deur die Harz-gebergte sonder om hoog te gaan en gee uiteindelik 'n indruk van die grootskaalse landbou-ondernemings wat deur die Brandenburg-Pruisiese adel in die 17de eeu, en het voortgegaan om te bestaan in die vorm van People's Owned Companies gedurende die DDR.
E11 word normaalweg op verskillende regionale maniere gemerk en slegs selde word daaraan herinner dat 'n mens 'n Europese spoor volg. Dit is dus absoluut noodsaaklik om die name van hierdie roetes en hul simbole, soos hieronder aangedui, te ken. Aangesien dit beide as merke op bome en mure voorkom en op gedetailleerde kaarte waarop die roetes aangedui word, is geen verdere kennis van die Duitse taal nodig om die Poolse grens te bereik nie. Hierdie kaarte word gewoonlik slegs in plaaslike boekwinkels aangetref, maar gespesialiseerde kan kaarte uit ander gebiede in voorraad hê. Falk en ADAC publiseer padatlasse op 'n skaal van 1: 200 000 waarop E11 opvallend goed aangedui word. Die atlas word regdeur Europa verkoop.
Töddenweg en Wittekindsweg (205 km)
E11 volg die grens tussen die Duitse federale state (Lande) van Nedersakse en Noord-Rhyn-Wesfale oor die 200 km, wat beteken dat 'n mens minstens elke dag hul grens oorsteek. Dit geld vir beide die Töddenweg en die Wittekindsweg, wat die onderskeie voortsettings van die Marskramerpad vorm.
Die Töddenweg ('n plaaslike naam wat vertaal moet word as Peddlers Way) het vroeër in Oldenzaal in Nederland begin, maar begin nou in Slegte Bentheim, 'n ou sitplek van Duitse adel met 'n middeleeuse kasteel (gedeeltelik museum) en 'n funksionerende spa. Die Töddenweg gaan verby 3 Schüttorf, 4 Rheine, 5 Dreierwalde, 6 Ostenwalde, 7 Hopsten, 8 Recke, 9 Mettingen en 10 Westerkappeln om te eindig by die sentrale stasie van 11 Osnabrück. 'N Stel van 3 kaarte kan afgelaai of bestel word by EUREGIO. 'N Ander kaart kan op die webwerf verkry word Spazieren.de (klik op "T - Töddenweg (Download, GIF-Datei, archiviert / ZIP, 167 KB)) In sy huidige vorm, van Bad Bentheim tot Osnabrück, meet die Töddenweg 110 km. Dit word gekenmerk deur plakkers met 'n wit hoofletter T op 'n swart vierkant, of deur 'n eenvoudige T wat op bome en mure geverf is. 'n GPS-spoor kan afgelaai word hier. Dit vaar effens verhewe bo die omliggende akkerland.
Die voortsetting na Osnabrück se monumentale treinstasie word genoem Widukind's Way (Wittekindsweg), vernoem na 'n oorlogsleier uit die 8ste eeu wat die verowering van Sakse deur Karel die Grote weerstaan en later die eerste hertog van Sakse onder Karel die Grote geword het. Die Wittekindsweg, 95 km lank, volg die kruin van die Wiehengebirge, verbygaan 12 Rulle, Mühlenortnaby Engter, 13 Vehrte, 14 Ostercappeln, 15 Wehrendorf, 16 Barkhausen, 17 Oberbauerschaft en 18 Bergkirchen aan 19 Porta Westfalica. Net voor die opspraakwekkende afdraand na Porta Westfalica, loop die roete verby die reuse-monument ter ere van Wilhelm I, die Duitse keiser vanaf 1871 tot aan sy dood in 1888. Die gebou is so geplaas dat, selfs vandag nog, almal wat in 'n trein of op die snelweg, sien dit hoog op die helling wat die Wiehengebirge eindig.
Die Wittekindsweg is gemerk met 'n skewe wit kruis op 'n swart agtergrond (of op bome en mure) van Osnabrück tot Mühlenort, maar daarna met die wit en rooi strepe wat aan Frankryk en die BeNeLux-lande herinner. Die stuk van Osnabrück tot by die Wittekindsberg, suid van die stad Minden, word ook gevind op Kompaskaart 750 (beskikbaar in enige goeie boekwinkel in die hele Europa). Beide die Töddenweg en die Wittekindsweg staan onder die bestuur van die Wiehengebirgsverband Weser-Ems, 'n kwango wat toerisme en ander kommersiële belange in die streek bevorder. Hulle publiseer en verkoop gedetailleerde kaarte wat die roete vertoon, wat by hulle bestel kan word webwerf. Vir diegene wat Duits lees, kan hul boekie met 'n gedetailleerde beskrywing van die reisplan nuttig wees. 'N Ander kaart van die roete kan afgelaai word vanaf Spazieren.de en klik op "Wittekindsweg (Download, GIF-Datei, archiviert / ZIP, 209 KB). 'n Paar gedetailleerde inligting oor die roete word in Duits gegee deur Wanderbares-Deutschland.de (klik op Wittekindsweg in die lys roetes in die linkerkolom van die bladsy). 'N GPS-snit kan afgelaai word vanaf Wanderkompas.
Oostelike Nedersakse en Hartsberge (186 km)
Na Porta Westfalica E11 bly byna 200 km in Nedersakse. Dit volg die 50 km van 'n streekstaproete, die Wesergebirgsweg, wat oor die kruin van die volgende kruin, die Weser Uplands na die Middeleeuse stad Hameln. E11 bereik 'n hoogte van 440 meter verder 20 Mount Hohe Egge, te midde van asemrowende rotse en oeroue woude. Dit kruis dan die oop afdraande rondom 21 Hameln (kruisings met E1) en 22 Coppenbrügge, naby die riviere Hamel en Weser. Laasgenoemde gemeente bied die laaste moontlikheid om inkopies te doen voordat E11 die volgende rif, die Ith en bly op sy kruin oor sy volle lengte.
Slaag 23 Eschershausen, Middeleeuse 24 Alfeld, die Helleberg ("Mount Hell") en 25 Bad Gandersheim, E11 bereik die Hartsberge by die dorp 26 Seesen. Alhoewel die bergreeks bergtoppe van 1000 meter en meer bied (die beroemde Gebreek is meer as 1100 m), klim E11 nie hoër as 500 m nie en hou dit meestal tot by die onderste dele van die noordelike hange. Dit kruis deur 'n paar townships wat bekend is uit die vroeë Duitse geskiedenis: 27 Goslar (kruisings met E6) en 28 Bad Harzburg. Die riviertjie Ecker was vroeër die 29 Duits-Duitse grens en skei nou die federale state van Nedersakse en Sakse-Anhalt.
Gedetailleerde inligting oor hierdie deel van die roete kan gevind word in 'n publikasie in Duits, E11Mittel - Der E11 durch das Norddeutsche Mittelgebirge (2010); Fernwege.de; ISBN 9783937304809 (hierdie gids beskryf die E11 vanaf Porta Westfalica na die stad Halle an der Saale in Sakse-Anhalt), op 'n Duitse webwerf FernwegeE11 en op verskeie gedetailleerde topografiese kaarte soos Kompas 450. E11 is gemerk op bome en mure met 'n wit skewe kruis (X), soms op 'n swart vierkant en / of met die letter N om verwarring met ander paaie te voorkom. Die N verwys na die ou naam van die roete, Nederland - Harzberge. Let daarop dat die tekens "X11", ook met 'n wit kruis, verwys na 'n ander spoor wat parallel loop met E11.
Harz-gebergte en Sakse-Anhalt (244 km)
In die jare na die Duitse hereniging het die Harz-klub baie moeite gedoen om die netwerk van wandelroetes in die oostelike deel van die Harzberge te herstel. Dit het gelei tot 'n heeltemal nuwe uitbreiding van die E11 deur die deelstaat Sakse-Anhalt. Dit gaan verby 30 Ilsenburg, 31 Wernigerode, 32 Thale, 33 Gernrode en 34 Ballenstedt, breek uiteindelik deur die kruin van die Harzberge (wat heuwels eerder as berge hier is) via 35 Pansfelde en 36 Wippra, en bereik 37 Lutherstadt Eisleben. Laasgenoemde stad staan bekend as die geboortedorp van Martin Luther, die kerkhervormer, en dra sy naam in sy amptelike naam.
'N Verdere uitbreiding, wat lank beplan is, maar eers in 2007 gerealiseer is, lei E11 deur mynbou en grootskaalse landbougebied na die dorpie 38 Höhnstedt en die Natuurpark van die Laer Saale (Naturpark Unteres Saaletal) E11 gaan voort teen 39 Schochwitz en 40 Dölau na die groot stad Halle. Die gedeelte tot Halle is op dieselfde manier as die vorige dele gemerk, dit wil sê 'n wit kruis (X), moontlik op 'n swart vierkant.
Die merkwaardige stad van 41 Halle het die Tweede Wêreldoorlog byna onbeskadig oorleef en behou 'n groot aantal geboue wat Jugendstil, Bauhaus en ander argitektuurstyle weerspieël. Na Halle klim E11 die eensame heuwel van 42 Petersberg en gaan deur plat, oop land. Die natuurskoon weerspieël sowel die groot skaal van landbou-ondernemings in die DDR as die van die Brandenburg-Pruisiese adel in die 18de en 19de eeu. E11 slaag 43 Görzig en 44 Quellendorf die stad van te bereik 45 Dessau, die bakermat van Bauhaus. Die E11 stort dan in die opwindende aard van die Biosfeerreservaat van die Middel-Elbe. Dit gaan verby 46 Vockerode, 47 Wörlitz en 48 Coswig en gaan die bos in 49 Senst. Kort na hierdie dorp bereik E11 die grens met die federale deelstaat Brandenburg. Na Halle word E11 gemerk volgens die tradisionele stelsel in die voormalige kommunistiese Europa: drie horisontale strepe, wit, blou en wit, wat ook geïnterpreteer kan word as 'n blou streep op 'n wit vierkant.
In Sakse-Anhalt word E11 veral aangetref op die kaarte wat deur Kompass gepubliseer is 450 of 452 en 453 (Harzberge tot Eisleben), 457 (Eisleben tot Halle), 458 (Halle tot Dessau) en 456 of 747 (na Dessau). Alternatiewelik kan topografiese kaarte plaaslik verkry word. Nuttige inligting in die Duitse taal kan gevind word op die webwerf van Fernwege.de deur op "PDF Touren download", "Wander-Shop" en "Fernwanderwege in Deutschland" te klik (die gedeelte tussen Halle en Coswig ontbreek steeds).
Brandenburg en Berlyn (348 km)
E11 betree Brandenburg naby 50 Groß-Marzehns en kruis boomlose grootskaalse akkerland tot die skilderagtige stad 51 Belzig. Die roete gaan voort deur uitgestrekte jagwoude, wat in die 19de eeu die eiendom van die Brandenburg-Pruisiese adel was en as 'n groen gebied gedien het. Berlyn en Potsdam in die 20ste eeu. Ongeveer 20 km voor Potsdam bereik E11 die eerste van 'n 52 telling van mere ingezoom deur baie voormalige DDR-vakansieoorde, waarvan sommige nog steeds kan vertoef.
Suid van punt 53 Potsdam die pad ontmoet die E10 wat in Noord-Suid rigting loop. Dit word gekenmerk deur 'n groot klip ongeveer 200 meter suid van die Sentrale Treinstasie van Potsdam. E11 neem min tyd, want dit vermy die interessante historiese middedorp en die luukse paleise van die voormalige hertogte van Brandenburg, wat konings van Pruise en keisers van Duitsland geword het. E11 sluip deur een van die warmste plekke op die voormalige grens van Berlyn, 54 Klein Glienicke. Hierdie klein nedersetting omring deur water en gedeel deur 'n ingeduikde grens, was gedurende die Koue Oorlog deur albei supermoondhede vol spioene gepak. Die Glienicke-brug was getuie van die opening en die daaropvolgende val van die Ystergordyn in 1989.
Die roete deur die voormalige Wes-Berlyn verras met 'n uitgestrekte bos voor die 55 Olimpiese stadion in Charlottenburg bereik word. Hierdie deel van Berlyn is ryk aan historiese kastele, waaronder die winterkoshuis van die Pruisiese konings, wat ook 'n paar museums hier gestig het. Die meeste beroemde musea in Berlyn is egter in Mitte (die historiese sentrum van Berlyn en ook die sentrum van Oos-Berlyn in DDR-tye. E11 gaan nie hier verby nie, maar volg 'n ou spoor van Wes-Berlyn langs die rivier die Spree en die 56 Landwehrkanaal, en mis dus die interessantste dele van die voormalige Oos-Berlyn en die huidige Berlyn.
Die gemeente van 57 Köpenick is waar E11 die voormalige Oos-Berlynse gebied betree. E11 talm rustig tussen die rivier die Spree en 'n paar ontspanningsparke en steek dan die rivier met 'n veerboot oor na 'n groot gebied van stadshuise en bungalows om 58 Friedrichshagen. Hier laat E11 die verstedeliking agter om na die Noorde te gaan in een van die mooiste dele van die roete, die vallei van die klein 59 rivier Erpe of Neuenhagener Mühlenfließ. As ons oos draai, loop die roete nou deur 60 Neuenhagen en die Märkische Schweiz Natuurpark aan 61 Gusow naby die stad van 62 Seelow. Van hier af kan die rambler 'n meer westelike roete kies oor die heuwels van Lebus tot by Jacobsdorf, of meer na die Ooste, die roete wat na die dorpie 63 Reitwein, volg die rivier Oder na die suide. Albei variante ontmoet mekaar in 64 Frankfurt (Oder), waar die Duitse deel van E11 eindig op die brug oor die Oder na Pole.
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In Brandenburg en Berlyn word E11 op verskillende maniere gemerk. Die wit-blou-wit strepe wat van Coswig in Sakse-Anhalt kom, duur tot by Luisium. Wit-rooi-wit merke neem oor na die klein dorpie Wörlitz (Brandenburg; nie die groter gelyknamige dorpsgebied in Sakse-Anhalt nie) en wit-blou-wit strepe bring die rambler na Potsdam. Voor Potsdam se monumentale sentrale treinstasie (Potsdam Hauptbahnhof) vergader E11 E10, wat Noord-Suid loop en ook wit-blou-wit gemerk is. 'N Gele X neem die rondloper deur die voormalige Wes-Berlyn na die begin van Köpenick, waarvandaan wit-geel-wit strepe deur hierdie stad en die van Friedrichshagen lei. Wit-rooi-wit strepe volg en bring die stapper na Neuhardenberg. terwyl wit-blou-wit strepe die reis na Frankfurt (Oder) vergesel.
Hierdie deel van die E11 word in die Duitstalige boek beskryf Wanderungen durch Brandenburg, Unterwegs auf den Europäischen Fernwanderwegen E10 und E11 (Beskrywing van E10 en E11 in die deelstaat Brandenburg), Trescher Verlag (2003). ISBN 9783897940338. 'N Lys van 150 adresse wat slaapplek vir die nag aanbied, ook in Duits, word in gespesialiseerde boekwinkels gevind Übernachtungsverzeichnis zum europäischen Fernwanderweg E11 in BrandenburgISBN 9783937304410. 'N Paar nuttige inligting kan gevind word by Fernwege.de maar as sodanig nie genoeg om die roete te volg nie. Dit word sterk aangeraai om a stadsplan van Berlyn as jy van Potsdam na Neuenhagen stap. Plaaslik gekoopte topografiese kaarte sal die res van die roete in Brandenburg regkry.
E11 in Pole (1 209 km)
In Pole gaan die E11 na die ooste, dan na die noordooste, om die stede van Międzychód, Poznań, Gniezno, Om te hardloop, Brodnica, Iława, Olsztyn en Gołdap na die gemeente Ogrodniki in Sejny County op die Litaus grens. Aangesien 30% van Pole met bos bedek is, sal dit nie verbasend wees om uit te vind dat die meeste van die E11 deur uitgestrekte gebiede kruis met bome (meestal geplant en op kommersiële wyse benut nie) en verskillende vorme van wilde natuur, soos mere en duine . Naby Poznań loop die rondloper egter dae lank deur akkerbou- en semi-industriële grond, aangenaam gemaak deur sommige ou stede en geboue.
Aangesien Pole taamlik skaars bevolk is, is dit belangriker dat wandelaars sonder tente voorberei moet word vir daaglikse afstande tussen 25 en 35 km as hulle na die ooste gaan. Waar die routing hieronder in detail aangedui word, word die afstand vanaf die begin van die gedeelte by die naam van 'n dorp gevoeg om aan te dui dat die stad een of ander vorm van akkommodasie aanbied. Byvoorbeeld, "Wronki (88 km)" in die afdeling "Międzyrzecz - Poznań-Kiekrz" beteken dat daar 'n koshuis, hotel of ander akkommodasie in die stad Wronki is, 88 km na Międzyrzecz.
Geen Poolse streekroete is as geheel deel van die E11 nie. Die roete spring eerder van een bestaande roete na 'n ander, gewoonlik nadat hy net so 'n kort roete gevolg het. Daarbenewens word E11 nie in die veld as sodanig aangedui nie, met enkele uitsonderings wat elke 100 km tot een teken kan bydra. Die streekspaaie is egter gemerk, hoewel dit nie altyd goed genoeg is om die rambler in staat te stel om E11 sonder 'n kaart te vind nie. Die nasienstelsel is altyd die algemeen-Sentraal-Europees, dit wil sê witkleur-wit, maar as gevolg van die vele veranderinge van een spoor na 'n ander, wissel die kleur baie. Daarom word die kleur van die merke in die besonderhede van die routering van elke afdeling hieronder aangedui. For example, "Drzecin (yellow)" means that in Drzecin, E11 begins to follow a trail marked with yellow stripes on a white square.
Some topographical maps show sections of E11, but others may only show the trails that form the basis for it. It is therefore necessary to fall back on documents describing which sections of which trails form E11 together. Unfortunately, these are hardly accessible or incomplete:
1. A German book summarizing the routing of all eleven European long distance paths. Hans Jürgen Gorges: Auf Tour in Europa, ed. Kompass & European Ramblers Association (1999/2000 and 2002). This is an (even second-hand) completely sold-out summary of the E-trails, getting obsolete due to changes in the routings.
2. A series of Polish topographical maps (with legend in English) showing hiking trails, but not always indicating which of these belong to E11. "Poltopo" Oddział Topograficny Sztabu Gen. WP: Mapa Topograficzna Polski §, where § stands for the number of the map, i.e. "N-33-125/126" for the first map after Frankfurt (Oder). These and some more detailed maps may be ordered from abroad at the specialized map shop Grupa.18[voorheen dooie skakel] in Poznań.
3. Later changes in the Polish routing can be found (in Polish) in the offices of PTTK, the Polish tourist organization. and (in English) at the secretariat of the European Ramblers Association in Prague.
4. You can't find your way with the help of German maps, however detailed they are. These maps tend to show the German names of townships as they were in use until 1945, but these names are nowhere to be found in the area. The German inhabitants of old were forcibly resettled in Germany and are no longer there, whereas the present Polish inhabitants are mostly the children of those who were equally forcefully resettled from areas that once belonged to Poland, but are now parts of Belarus en Ukraine, some thousand kilometers to the east. Thus none of the locals is able to trace an old German name to a modern Polish settlement.
Oder bridge - Międzyrzecz (141 km)
Once the bridge across the River Oder (and the now open border between Germany and Poland) has been passed, E11 (here unmarked) goes straight through the town center of 1 Słubice, until 1945 a suburban part of Frankfurt (Oder) under the name of Dammvorstadt, but a separate township in a different country since then. Going straight all the time for two kilometers, the rambler reaches a small parcel of forest. Here E11 curbs left toward the little village of Drzecin, where the first white-yellow-white markings are found. These lead in a few days to Lubniewice, where the markings change to white-blue-white. Up to here, map N-33-125/126 suffices, although it does not mention E11. Map N-33-127/128 has a new edition that shows the precise course of E11 from Trzebów. The detailed routing is: Oder bridge between Frankfurt (Oder) and Słubice - town center of Słubice (no marking) - 2 Drzecin (yellow) - 3 Stare Biskupice - 4 Sułów - 5 Drzeńsko - 6 Lubiechnia Wielka - 7 Lubiechnia Mała - 8 Ośno Lubuskie (34 km) - 9 Trzebów - 10 Jarnatów - 11 Lubniewice (67 km).
The blue trail passes Kursko and leads to Kęszyca Leśna, a former army base of the SovietRed Army that now tries to build up a second life as an industrial and tourist settlement. The former staff quarters now function as a hotel, where the hiker may rest as a Soviet general. A little further lies Kęszyca, where a German system of underground corridors and strongholds can be visited. This dates back to the 1920s, when democratic Germany (the Weimar Republic) felt the need to defend itself against a possible attack from the east. In the 1930s already, this defense system started to deteriorate as dictator Adolf Hitler was more interested in attacking himself to the east and saw no need for a defense system that, from his point of view, lay somewhere inland in his dreamed Greater Germany. The spot offers now the unique possibility of following E11 underground.
(blue) - 12 Osiecko - 13 Bledzew (78 km) - 14 Chycina - 15 Gorzyca - 16 Kursko (93 km) - 17 Kęszyca Leśna (100 km) - 18 Kęszyca - 19 Rez. Nietoperek - between Kaława and Wysoka - 20 Gościkowo, with Paradyż abbey (112 km) (green) - 21 Szumiąca - 22 Bobowicko (141 km). The blue trail carries E11 until the township of Gościkowo, where the Paradyż Abbey sometimes hosts tired ramblers overnight, provided they accept the sober rules of monk life. After Gościkowo, white-green-white marks lead through some 30 km of forest to Bobowicko.
Between Kursko and Bobowicko, E11 follows a large bow around the city of Międzyrzecz. The city has bus and train connections with various townships on E11 and may be used as a pleasant station for two or three days of walking without much luggage. Bodowice is at walking distance (2 km) from the train and bus stations of Międzyrzecz. Due to its train connections to Poznań and Germany, Międzyrzecz is also a good place to end or start a tour of one or more weeks along E11. The city has an interesting regional museum and a lively score of restaurants and bars.
Międzyrzecz - Poznań-Kiekrz (133 km)
From Bobowicko, the green trail continues till after Stołuń, where E11 begins to follow white-blue-white to Villa Toscana, a lonely hotel between the villages of Nowe Gorzycko and Stare Gorzycko. The blue trail and E11 continue to the twin cities of Międzychód en Bielsko, which offer many opportunities for shopping (fashion, antiquities, arts) and staying overnight. E11 now enters the area that, for a long time, was No Man's Land and War Front Zone between Prussia (later the German Empire) and Poland. Many monuments remind of this tragedy, but the explanatory texts are in Polish only. In Bukowar the markings change to white-red-white and in Obrzycko to white-green-white. Słopanowo marks the end of the forests; E11 now enters the agrarian open space of the province of Greater Poland around the city of Poznań. There are no marks after Szamotuły. The village of Kiekrz is where E11 reaches Poznań.
Maps N-33-127/128, N-33-129/130 and N-33-117/118 do not mention E11, but show the underlined trails in the right color until Szamotuły. The precise routing of E11 is: Bobowicko (green) - 23 Żółwin - 24 Kuligowo - 25 Stołuń - 1 km before Rybakówko (blue) - Villa Toscania (27 km) - 26 Stare Gorzycko - 27 Słodewy Młyn - 28 Międzychód (33 km) - 29 Bielsko (36 km) - 30 Ławicá - 31 Góra - 32 Sieraków (53 km) - 33 Piaski - 34 Bucharzewo - 35 Bukowar (red) - 36 Pustelnia - 37 Chojno - 38 Chojno Błota - 39 Mokrz - 40 Wronki (88 km) - 41 Obrzycko (99 km) (green) - 42 Słopanowo - 43 Kobylniki - 44 Twardowo - 45 Szczuczyn - 46 Szamotuły (113 km) (no marking) - 47 Kępa - 48 Baborówko - 49 Pamiątkowo - 50 Krzyszkowo - 51 Rokietnica - 52 Starzyny - 53 Poznań-Kiekrz (133 km).
E11 through Poznań (33 km)
From behind the railway station of Kiekrz, a white-green-white marked trail leads through a vast city park to 54 Golęcin, from where a few black or blue marks guide the rambler to the tramway stop of 55 Sołacz en 56 Nad Wierzbakiem. After this point, E11 is not defined, but the obvious choice of a rambler interested in one of the oldest, biggest and most beautiful town centers along E11 is to turn right (south) toward 57 Rynek Jezycki. Here begins The Royal-Imperial Route in Poznań which, in a more or less straight West-East line, passes all touristic highlights of Poznań, among others the 58 central square of Poznań, Rynek and Rondo Środka. This tourist trail ends at the medieval little Church of St. John of Jerusalem Outside the Walls near Lake Malta. The quiet northern shore of this 59 Jezioro Maltańskie offers interesting views of the many sports accommodations on and around the lake and guides the E11 rambler to Krańcowa/60 Nowe Zoo and the start of the well-marked but curving Cistercian bicycle track (black monks on a white field or simple black stripes). Its many curves lead around the zoo, through 61 Poznań-Antoninek to the last residential area of Poznań, 62 Zieliniec. Lodgings and buses back to town are found just across the border of the city in 63 Gruszczyn (35 km). For this part of the track, a detailed plan of the city is recommendable. Free street maps of the center of Poznań and leaflets with information about the Royal-Imperial Route are found in many hotel lobbies and in the tourist information centers.
Poznań-Zieliniec - Gniezno (55 km)
Crossing the main road in Gruszczyn, E11 goes straight, now following a different bicycle trail, which is marked with a black stripe on a white square (the Cistercian route, by the way, turns left here and ends after two kilometers at the railway station of Kobylnica, although Map N-33-131/132 suggests that it continues straight to Pobiedziska.) E11 passes over a tar road through a nondescript area of small businesses and workshops related to agriculture until, just before the little village of Pomo (not shown on map N-33-131/132), it turns left and immediately right again into a sandy forest road. This spot is marked by a stone pillar indicating various hiking and biking trails.
Having ventured into the forest for 2 or 3 kilometers, you reach a crossing of sandy roads where a hiking trail marked white-green-white comes from the left. E11 and the black bicycle trail turn right to follow the green trail over several kilometers and across a paved road, until finally all black or green markings disappear. Here you should follow white-blue-white markings which, after another kilometer, turn out to mark the same trail as the green hiking and black biking routes. The scale of the topo-map, 1:100,000, does not allow to display all these details, so that a good sense of direction (assisted by a compass and sunny weather) is required.
The combined blue, green and black routes reach a second tar road, which they follow to the left (north) over a few hundred meters. The green and black signs are nowhere to be seen, but the blue trail turns right into a sandy forest path and the map indicates that this is E11. After about a kilometer, the markings leave the path and invite the rambler to find his steps among the trees. The blue stripes are now corroborated by green stripes (both on a white square) and are convincingly frequent, so that it is quite frustrating to learn that both routes, after splitting up, die somewhere in the forest and the dunes. Romantic ramblers may be reminded of Hansel and Gretel and start searching for the edible house of the bad witch, but in earnest, there seems to be no other solution than to go back to the tar road and follow it to the right (north) to the township of Pobiedziska, where E11 is found back.
The stretch between Pobiedziska and Gniezno is poorly documented. The only known source is a big map of the area, placed on the central square near the main church of Trzemeszno, a township further down E11. In Pobiedziska, a clearly marked trail guides hikers and bikers to the local railway station, but E11 and two bicycle trails follow, unmarked, a different street. This is the ulica Gnieźnieńska at the left of the church on the central square of Pobiedziska. After a kilometer the road and the routes cross the railway. In Glówna, bicycle trail #12 turns left, but E11 proceeds along an unnumbered bicycle trail, also marked black, to the village of Węglewo. E11 and the unnumbered bicycle route make two right turns in Węglewo and a left turn just outside, to continue on a stony dirt road.
Five hundred meters before the dangerously busy main road #5 is reached (don't put your hopes on signs indicating that meals or drinks might be served), in the long-stretched village of Moraczewo, E11 and the bicycle route curve left toward Lednogóra where white-red-white markings join the trail. This is from now on the colour of E11 over more than 100 km. From the church in the little village with scattered houses, it is about 2 km to the main road #5, which is followed to the left over a newly paved footpath along a swampy lake. After another kilometer on this path, a crossing in the main road is reached. A huge red neon sign draws attention to a motel ahead on the main road; a humble signpost points to the youth hostel of Dziekanowice to the left; but E11 turns right to cross the main road and follow a tar road to the South. At the crossing a road sign says that it is now 22.2 km to Gniezno.
The tar road and E11 reach the railway track and follow it to the left, but where the tar road crosses the rails, E11 goes straight on a stony dirt road parallel to the railway. There are no markings here; the first white-red-white stripes are found just before the station of Fałkowo, where E11 turns right across the tracks into the township. Fałkowo is crossed at full length until you reach a motorway (in September 2011, the road was still under construction and a new routing of E11 had not been established. Please add new information here.) After Leśniewo scarce white-red-white signs can be found again, leading the aware and persistent rambler to Gniezno.
Gniezno was the first capital of Poland, way back in the Middle Ages, but it is now dreaming away as a provincial town. Old and beautiful houses and other buildings around the central square testify of an interesting past, whilst decaying factories refer to the recent communist past. The university offers the most lively corner of the town. The white-red-white marks of E11 lead along the most interesting churches, museums and other sites, and finally to the railway station.
The routing of E11 in this section can be summarized as: Poznań-Zieliniec (bicycle track marked with a black Cistercian on a white square) - Gruszczyn (1 km) (bicycle track marked white-black-white) - 64 Uzarzewo - 65 Biskupice - Rez. Jezinowo Dębiniec (green) - Rez. Drazynek (blue) - forest near Kapalice (no markings) - 66 Pobiedziska (22 km) (bicycle track marked white-black-white) - 67 Glówna - 68 Węglewo - 69 Moraczewo - 70 Lednogóra (red) - 71 crossing near Dziekanowice (33 km) - 72 Fałkowo - 73 Leśniewo - 74 Pierzyska - 75 Wożniki - 76 Gniezno (55 km).
Gniezno - Toruń (136 km)
A few signs in front of the railway station of Gniezno indicate distances along the red-marked trail that is E11. The 40 km to Mogilno are correct, but the distance to Kruszwica is severely exaggerated. The trail follows the road parallel to the tracks to the Northeast and turns then right into a tunnel under the railway. After another right turn, it passes through a modern industrial area, older residential quarters and a surprisingly wild patch of forest. The red markings lead through open agrarian land to the long-stretched industrial village of Trzemeszno. The trail passes in front of the railway station, crosses the tracks a little further, and reaches Mogilno via the village of Wydartowo.
The maps needed for this section are N-33-131/132, N-34-121/122, N-34-109/110 and N-34-97/98. E11 is not mentioned on these maps, but the red marked trails are partially covered, namely from Gniezno to Trzemeszno. From Trzemeszno to Strzelno, the E11 is shown on a locally published topographical map Mogilno na Szlaku Piastowskim, ed. Artem, Witkowo, 1:50 000, ISBN 8391396967 . The precise course of E11 in this section is: Gniezno (red) -Pławnik - 77 Kędzierzyn - 78 Nowa Wieś Niechanowska - 79 Krzyżówka - 80 Miaty - 81 Trzemeszno (23 km) - 82 Niewolno - 83 Folusz - 84 Wydartowo - 85 Duszno - 86 Izdby - 87 Gozdawa - 88 Wyrobki - 89 Mogilno (41 km)
The white-red-white stripes die out in Mogilno. E11, now invisible, turns right in the little park around the lake, not far from the railway station, and immediately right again, to follow the waterside toward the medieval Benedictine monastery. E11 turns left (east) along a busy narrow road to Bystrzyca, where it turns into a backstreet to Olsza. The lengthy village street of Podgaj and Kawka delivers the rambler at the lonely motel of Goryszewo Kwieciszewo. The exact routing in this part of the trail is: Mogilno - 90 Bystrzyca - 91 Olsza - 92 Goruszewo - 93 Kwieciszewo (51 km).
Here, the first white-red-white stripes since Mogilno are found. These fail to mark where E11 leaves the main road and hops to a dirt road running parallel to the main road, a few hundred meters to the South. The dirt road is scarcely marked until the entrance of a forest; then the marking activities have stopped completely. Ramblers who go straight through the wood, find red markings at the other side. E11 passes through Jeziorki and follows a sandy dirt road to Strzelno (the hotel indicated on maps in this town has shut its doors many years ago). After Strzelno, a Polish Way of St. James follows more or less the same route as the E11, so that the yellow and blue shells yield an alternative marking. E11 and the Way of St. James pass the attractive baroque church of Strzelno and the nearby village of Starczewo and, via Ksiaż, reach Polanowice. In this soviet-industrial village two rusty signs with white-red-white stripes are found, which still clearly indicate E11 (200 km after the previous E11 sign!) A rustic tree lane brings the rambler to Kruszwica, a provincial town with some interesting churches. The details of E11's course in this paragraph are: Kwieciszewo - 94 Jeziorki - 95 Strzelno (both red and Way of St. James) - 96 Starczewo - 97 Ksiaż - 98 Polanowice - 99 Lagiewniki - 1 Kruszwica (72 km).
Kruszwica shows no clue where E11 and the Way of St. James continue. Gorges invites to look for a trail marked blue, but the only blue trail to be found makes a short circuit through a suburb of Kruszwica. A better bet is to follow the busy main road to the North, which is marked with the shells of St.James. After 7 km, near Łojewo, one may take a quiet asphalt road to the skewed left, soon unpaved and marked blue. The blue signs lead finally through long-stretched suburbs to the city center of Inowrocław. The part of E11 in this paragraph runs: Kruszwica (Way of St. James shells) - 2 Szarlej - 3 Łojewo (blue) - 4 Szymborze - 5 Inowrocław (87 km).
Near the railway station of Inowrocław, a torn map of the city is found, which indicates where the red-marked E11 leaves the town. At a few points in town one still finds the white-red-white stripes. No markings whatsoever have survived in the villages up to Kolonie Szadłowice, but one may follow a green-marked bicycle trail. Somewhere among its scattered farmhouses, E11 turns right into a skewed dirt road that enters a forest, passes a military site (not on the map), curves to the North and turns right after about one kilometer into a sandy road that curves to the Northeast. All the time passing through the forests of Błoto Ostrowskie, E11 follows this sandy road without curves over almost three kilometers, until it reaches a T-junction and a wooded bank. The main road turns sharp right; a minor path goes left; E11 however breaks through the wooded bank into a large piece of grassland. If one enters the field and keeps to the left, one finds the next white-red-white stripes on a lonely tree in the grassland. It is an arrow this time, pointing back to Inowrocław, but if one follows the signs in the opposite direction, one comes to the village of Wierzbiczany. After a right turn outside this village, both the red markings and the blue shells of St.James lead through agrarian land to Gniewkowo. From the railway station of Inowrocław, E11 runs (red) - 6 Jacewo - 7 Balin - 8 Slońsko - 9 Pieklo - Kolonie Szadłowice - 10 Błoto Ostrowskie - 11 Wierzbiczany - 12 Gniewkowo (106 km).
At the railway crossing at the entrance of Gniewkowo, the red signs turn left to the railway station, but E11, now marked blue, and the Way of St. James go straight into the center of the township. They follow a right curve and leave the town on the asphalt road towards Cierpice to the North. In spite of Gorges E11 no longer passes through Suchatówka. The trails now enter a large forest, leave the tar road after some kilometers and make a wide curve of 16 km to the village of Cierpice, the first of a chain of suburbs of Toruń. The blue signs bring the E11 rambler without problems from Cierpice to and through Mała Nieszawka, but after this village, shortly before the railway station, the trail turns left without notice, into a road plastered with concrete. The trail climbs over a dyke and reaches the river Vistula (Wisla). Here it turns right into an unpaved track, to pass a few ruins and reaches the bridge to Toruń. The blue trail ends at the PTTK office in the town centre, after running Gniewkowo (blue) - 13 Cierpice (122 km) - 14 Mała Nieszawka (130 km) - 15 Toruń (136 km).
Toruń - Brodnica (87 km)
From the PTTK office in Toruń, E11 is identical to a trail marked white-yellow-white, which leads all the way to Samborowo, 200 km to the northeast. The maps N-34-97/98, N-34-109/110 and N-34-99/100 do not mention E11, but the yellow trail that is used by E11, is shown in violet between Toruń and Golub-Dobrzyń, as well as from Pólka Duża to Brodnica.
E11 and St. James Way avoid the historical town center of Toruń and pass between city walls and river Vistula (Wisla), but it is far more interesting to cross the city center from the PTTK office by Różana, Szeroka and Wielkie Garbary to the railway station of Toruń-Miasto.
Out of town, the trails follow a main road till Fort Sobieskiego, then turns right into the forest near the river Vistula, but is forced to enter a (badly marked) suburban residential area after only two km. It is only after Kaszczorek and Złotoria that the trails pass through forest for a couple of hours. After crossing the busy motorway A10 near Brzozówka Kuyavian, you may turn right to reach a motel at 1 km. The details of this stretch are: Toruń (yellow) - 16 Kaszczobek - 17 Złotoria - 18 Brzozówka (20 km).
Back at the crossing of Motorway A10 near Brzozówka, E11 turns left into an overgrown footpath and later reaches Mierzynek over a sandy road. Map N34-97/98 shows an older routing by Szembekowo. Van 19 Lelitowo to 20 Ciechocin (32 km) and again to Golub-Dobrzyń, E11 continues through a variety of natural and commercial forests along the river Drwęca, passing 21 Dulnik and Antoniewo to 22 Golub-Dobrzyń (44 km).
Map N-34-99/100 displays an erroneous course for the yellow trail until Pólka Duża (this village is not mentioned in the map). Actually, E11 leaves the twin cities without markings near the Post Office and the cemetery on National Road # 534 to Rypin. The trail turns left, to follow the river Drwęca to the North-East, and the first yellow signs are found in the forest. The trail then alternates between river side woods and agrarian settlements. Some of these remind of the composer Chopin who lived in this area and now has a museum in Szafarnia.
In Radziki Duże E11 turns left over a paved road with heavy lorries carrying loads from a sand quarry. It takes about an hour to reach a bridge over the Drwęca and escape from the road into the forest on the other side of the river. This sandy forest road continues till Mszano, but in a new suburb under Szabda it turns into a paved road and subsequently a boring main road leading to Brodnica, entering the city near the only hotel. The details of the course are: 23 Białkowo - 24 Szafarnia (53 km) - 25 Płonne - 26 Rodzone - 27 Tomkowo - 28 Kierz Radzikowski - 29 Radziki Duże - 30 Kupno - 31 Pólka Duża - 32 Słoszewy - 33 Mszano - 34 Szabda - 35 Brodnica (87 km).
Brodnica - Olsztyn (237 km)
Maps N-34-99/100, N-34-87/88, N-34-89/90 and N-34-77/78 do not mention E11, but show the underlying regional trails in the correct color (yellow being replaced by violet), with one exception: no trail is shown between Marianowo and Ostrowite.
E11 and St. James Way leave Brodnica well-marked, but avoiding the nice but neglected old city centre. The trails follow Motorway A15 and an abandoned railway track into forest, and meet the A15 again near the bridges of Tama Brodzka. Right after the bridge, the trails turn left into a small paved forest lane leading to Bachotek, where they split. The St. James Way offers a 24 km shorter option by Nowe Miasto Lubawskie to Radomno. E11 makes a few curves through the nature conservation area of Zbiczno lake and meets a trail marked green. Here the yellow signs are missing, but the green signs must be followed to the North until a paved road. The asphalt is followed to the East over about one kilometer between two lakes. Here the green trail and the yellow-marked E11 split up. (The green trail offers another short alternative for E11. It enters some of the most gratifying and adventurous pieces of wild nature in the area, reducing the distance by about 20 km.) E11 makes an almost full circle through rather dull woods and open land, passing twice near the tourist resort of Ciche and turning West to Górale, then North to the railway station of Ostrowite, and finally East.
The correct routing along the trails in various colors is: Brodnica (yellow) - Tama Brodzka (7 km) - 36 Bachotek (13 km) - Zbiczno lake - 37 Leśniczówka Rytebłota (23 km) (lodgings may be found near Ciche at 2 km) - 38 Górale - 39 Wonka (39 km) - 40 Ostrowite - 41 railway station of Ostrowite - 42 Łakorek (50 km, lodgings may be found again in Ciche, by following the paved road to the South over 4 km).
From Ciche one need not turn back to Łakorek by the paved road; the green-marked trail mentioned before offers a sensational alternative (pick it up in the forest East of Ciche). From the crossing of the green trail with E11, the now yellow-marked E11 continues to the East; through wood it goes to Sluzka, then through open agrarian land to the remarkable church ofGryżliny}}. A new routing carries E11 to Radomno, where it unites with the St. James Way. Both turn North at the eastern side of a string of lakes to reach Iława amidst rail tracks. In detail, E11 runs from the crossing with the green trail (yellow) - 43 Sluzka - 44 Skarlin - 45 Lekarty - 46 Gryźliny - 47 Radomno (73 km) - 48 Katarzynki - 49 Iława (85 km)
The trails pass the modern center of the city, which was heavily destroyed in the Second World War (first by the German Army, then by the Russian Red Army), and continue North through long-stretched Szalkowo, a water sports resort. E11 continues on a paved road between fields to Wiewiórka, then enters wooded land to reach the railway station of Samborowo. In detail: Iława - 50 Szałkowo (91 km) - Wiewiórka - 51 Tynwałd (99 km) - 52 Frednowy - 53 Wiewiórka - 54 Samborowo (112 km).
At the railway station of Samborowo, a blue-marked section of E11 to Waplewo, passing the historical site of Battle of Grunwald begins. Right after the start it is difficult to find: in the village of Samborowo it turns unexpectedly right, along the main road, to take the second bridge to the left and follow an old railway track over 9 km. Where it reaches a lone roadside cafe, E11 follows a paved road to the left, then another one toward long-stretched Pietrzwałd and the forests around Wysoka Wieś. There is a cheap hostel in Pietrzwałd with no visible signpost, while various luxury places can easily be found in Wysoka Wieś. Samborowo (112 km) (blue) - 55 Turznica - 56 Gruda - 57 Naprom - 58 Pietrzwałd (129 km) - 59 Wysoka Wieś (132 km).
A variety of wild and tamed nature (forest, wood, neglected fields, wasteland and farmland) decorates the trail past Grunwald to Waplewo. This Grunwald is the most important national site of the Polish people: it commemorates a medieval battle in which the Polish defeated an army of the German Knights. The trail is sometimes difficult to follow, as markings are scarce and the path may be overgrown, so good sense for direction and a compass are required. The villages along this part of E11 are Wysoka Wieś - 60 Dylewo - 61 Marcinkowo - 62 Samin - 63 Grunwald (156 km) - 64 Ulnowo - 65 Lubianek - 66 Sitno - 67 Waplewo.
After Waplewo, the scenery changes radically: open land makes place for wood, then forest. Two natural parks protect a great number of rare species (plants, mammals, birds and insects) and justify the large detour that E11 makes to the South before turning North. After Maróz there is only one place where one can find a bed: the "agroturystyka" in Brzeżno Łyńskie of a Polish lady who speaks English, French, German and Russian. To begin the 25 km long stretch through the Las Warminski natural reserve from here is a feast, which is regrettably disturbed by the extended apartment buildings and city motorways of Olsztyn. This section of E11 passes Waplewo - 68 railway station of Waplewo (black) - 69 Maróz junction (183 km; lodgings in Maróz at 1 km) - 70 Żelazno (yellow) - 71 Łyński Młyn (green) - 72 Orłowo - 73 Likusy - 74 Brzeżno Łyńskie (203 km) - 75 Kurki - 76 Las Warminski - 77 Ruś - 78 Bartążek - 79 Jaroty (232 km) - 80 Olsztyn (237 km).
Olsztyn - Gołdap (243 km)
Maps N-34-77/78, N-34-65/66, N-34-67/68 en N-34-69/70 do not mention E11, but display the underlying regional trails in the colors with which they are marked (yellow shown as violet). Exception: the stretch from Lidzbark Warmiński to Kętrzyn is not shown in the maps. Part of this, however, is shown in blue on a detailed map of eastern Masuria that can be acquired locally: PPWK/Copernicus: Grosse Masurische Seen 1:100 000, ISBN 9788376970035 .
Olsztyn has a most interesting historical city centre that to a large extent has been restored. The museums and shops invite to a day of rest, before one sets out to follow E11 on the Copernicus Path. Its red markings lead from the PTTK office to the North of the city and under a huge railway viaduct. The trail follows the western bank of the river Lyna, but the eastern bank offers a number of attractions, including a canopy walk and a rope bridge over the river. After the Smętka bridge the city noises are no longer heard and the trail becomes a quiet footpath through river bank wood. The village of Dywity used to be on the trail, but is now passed at a distance. Wood dominates until the rural settlement of Swobodna; fields and pastures follow, while E11 and the St. James Way pass the pilgrim's hostel of Głotowo and the provincial town of Dobre Miasto. The details of the routing are: Olsztyn (red) - Os Wojska - 81 Braswald - 82 Barkweda - Strusiolandia (18 km) - 83 Cerkiewnik - 84 L. Chmury - 85 Swobodna - 86 Głotowo (32 km) - 87 Dobre Miasto (37 km).
From Dobre Miasto a narrow paved road with busy traffic leads E11 Northwest through Kunik. After this village the red markings of the Copernicus Path and E11 turn right into a one-lane paved road that gives access to the bishop's palace of Smolajny. There is no doubt that the trail swarves over the clerical grounds, then crosses another paved road and enters the open fields at the other side of the road. But when, after about 1 km, it enters a marsh, all traces of markings are vanished. No path seems to continue from here, except for an overgrown cart track that leads back to the church grounds. The only way out of this maze is to go back to the paved road and take it to the left (Northeast) through the village of Smolajny up to its ending at National Motorway #51. This must then be followed over 5 km until a large parking space and rest area is reached. Here one finds the red markings again; they lead into wood and later through a puszta type of landscape, pass the lonely and almost deserted village of Wróblik to Pilnik, a residential neighbourhood of Lidzbark Warmiński. In detail: Dobre Miasto - 88 Kunik - 89 Smolajny - 90 Wróblik - Nowosady - 91 Pilnik - crossing 92 Lidzbark Warmiński (62 km).
The red-marked Copernicus Path turns left at this point, but this is not where the E11 rambler should go. It is tempting to go straight to the vast town centre and find a bed, but the E11 turns right, leaving the town again, it seems, to follow the black markings of a local trail that joins the river Lyna and follows its meandering valley. For some obscure reason this walk avoids most of the medieval beauties of the town and passes along some apartment buildings from the communist era to the railway station. For those who stick to the precise course of E11, a second deception follows after the uninteresting railway station: A trail marked blue takes them back along the same apartment buildings to the entry of the Lyna valley, allows a view of the Knights' Castle and then leaves the town. It is therefore advisable to spend a day in Lidzbark Warmiński to visit the many remnants of medieval Christian Knighthood.
The blue trail will carry E11 over 69 km to Kętrzyn, but sets out by visiting a war cemetery from the First World War. Straight East it goes then to the monastery of Stoczek Klasztorny (Warmiński), where pilgrims on the St. James' Way and other ramblers may find a simple meal and a bed. The blue trail continues through open land and over the long main street of Sulowo to charming Bisztynek, another town reminiscent of the medieval German Knights. An old railway track carries E11 out of town to the East and on a sandy road more or less parallel to the old track, the extended village of Sątopy-Samulewo is reached. E11 goes straight, past a new settlement of apartment blocks and to an older settlement where it turns right. The paved road becomes a gravel road, the gravel makes place for sand, then grass, and after a while the rambler must find a thorny way by going straight and noticing the occasional blue mark. When a paved road is reached, E11 follows it to the left and finally reaches the next medieval town, Reszel which also offers an unusual rich variety of dishes. The townships passed are Lidzbark Warmiński - 93 Sarnowo - 94 Stoczek Klasztorny (Warmiński) (80 km) - 95 Kiwity (85 km) - 96 Rokitnik (88 km; hotel at 1 km) - 97 Sulowo - 98 Bisztynek (94 km) - 99 Nowe Wieś Reszelska - 1 Sątopy-Samulewo - 2 Troksy - 3 Biel - 4 Czarnowiec - 5 Reszel (114 km).
Reszel is also left over an old railway track, but E11 soon turns right (South) toward the popular pilgrimage church of Święta Lipka. It offers beds in a pilgrim house and accommodation in hotels for every budget, and the company of bus loads of tourists. After this busy beehive, E11 finds the silence of a detour through forest and a long walk over an old railway track through fields to the industrial village of Smokowo. A feeder road brings the rambler to a main road with heavy traffic. This highway, followed to the right (East) ends up at the beginning of the long high street of Kętrzyn. This is mainly a flourishing modern provincial town, but it lodges some memories of the medieval past. It also harbors the last railway station before the ending of E11, about 300 km further. Ramblers who want to interrupt their walk in any township after Kętrzyn, will have to study the time tables in Polish of the regional bus services, instead of using www.Bahn.com in English. The places passed on this stretch are Reszel - 6 Święta Lipka (121 km) - 7 Pieckowo - 8 Smokowo - 9 Biedaszki - 10 Kętrzyn (137 km)
Near Kętrzyn was Hitler's strongest hide-away, the so-called Wolfsschanze (Wolf's Lair). As the map shows, it was a huge military complex. House No. 6 was the location of a plot by Claus von Stauffenberg and others to kill Hitler in a late stage of World War II. Once the troops of the Red Army had conquered the place, they tried to destroy it with tons of dynamite, but large ruins can still be seen and visited.
After Kętrzyn follow 11 Kruszewiec - 12 Karolewo - 13 Czerniki - Szaniec - 14 Parcz (black) - 15 Jankowo - 16 Skrzypy (red) - 17 Pilwa - 18 Radzieje (155 km) - 19 Łabapa - 20 Sztynort (black) - 21 Sklodowo - Kolonie Harsz - 22 Harsz (169 km) - 23 Okowizna - 24 Ogonki (176 km) (blue) - 25 Pozezdrze (182 km) - 26 Sapieniec - 27 Przytuły - 28 Wilkus - 29 Jasieńczyk - 30 Jasieniec (193 km) (lodgings will be found in Jeziorowski, 2 km) (green) - 31 Żabinka - 32 L. Diabla Gora - Rogonie - 33 L. Leśny Zakątek (210 km) - 34 Czerwony Dwór - L. Olszanka - 35 Jabłonowo - 36 Golubie Wężewskie - 37 Wilkasy - 38 Kamionki - 39 Pietrasze - 40 Suczki - 41 Osiedłe - 42 Gołdap (243 km).
Gołdap - Lithuanian border (144 km)
In Gołdap, E11 offers a choice between a trail marked white-green-white that comes very close to the Russian border, or a white-red-white trail along the main road to the East. Both trails meet again after 31 km in Stanczyki. The green trail passes through uninhabited woodland and should not be recommended to ramblers with a weak sense of orientation, or those who fear Russian red tape when crossing the border unintentionally and without visa. That one reaches the Russian border before Lithuania, may be surprising to those who are not aware that Russia has an exclave around Kaliningrad, formerly German Königsberg.
For this section, the rambler will need maps N-34-69/70 and N-34-71/7. Kaart N-34-57 / 58 is slegs nodig (sleg!) Vir die groen roete langs die Russiese grens, Gołdap (groen) - 43 Botkuny - 44 Jurkiszky - Hajnówek - 45 Blędziski - 46 Stanczyki (31 km). Die rooi alternatief is Gołdap (rooi) - L. Kumiacie - Botkuny - Jurkiszki - Galwiecje (12 km) - Pluszkiejmy - Budwiecie - Stańczyki (31 km).
Vanuit Stańczyki is die roete: Stańczyki (rooi) - 47 Maciejowieta (32 km vanaf Gołdap) - 48 Pobłędzie - 49 Rakówek (geel) - 50 Kłajpedka - 51 Kłajpeda - 52 Dziadówek (rooi) - 53 Dzierwany (blou) - 54 Smolniki (50 km) (groen) - 55 Łopuchowon - 56 Udziejek - 57 Czajewszczyzna (58 km) - 58 Kazimierówka - 59 Jeleniewo (62 km) - 60 Krzemianka (64 km) - kruising met hoofweg # 8 (= E 67) in 61 Swajcaria (swart) - 62 Staar Folwark (88 km) (groen) - 63 Magdalenowo - 64 Czerwony Folwark - 65 Rosochaty Rog - Węgzał (blou) - 66 Maćkowa Ruda - 67 Wysoki Most (brug) - 68 Jeziorki - 69 Karolin - 70 Wiersnie - 71 Giby (116 km) (verblyf in Sejny op 7 km) (rooi) - 72 Zelwa - 73 Berżniki - 74 Dworczysko - J.Szłabinki (136 km) (verblyf in Sejny, 5 km verder op die rooi roete) (swart) - 75 Ogrodniki grensstasie (144 km).
Gaan volgende
E11 eindig by die Pools-Litausse grenspos op 3 km vanaf Ogrodniki. Die naaste verblyf is in Sejny, 11 km langs die hoofweg, of 13 km deur die swart roete terug te volg en dan die rooi roete na regs. Diegene wat waag Litaue 'n gastehuis in Lazdijaj. Geen dorp het enige treinverbinding nie; om 'n trein huis toe of na 'n lughawe te neem, kan 'n mens die rooi roete vanaf volg Sejny meer as 25 km tot by die treinstasie van Trakiszki naby Puńsk. Daar is ook treinstasies in die Poolse stad Suwałki en die Litaus stad van Sestokai. Wees voorbereid op 'n lang wag; daar is blykbaar net een trein in beide rigtings vanaf hierdie plekke, behalwe Suwałki, wat daagliks drie treine aanbied Białystok. U kan die mees onlangse roosters op Bahn.com.
Camino Lituano begin by Sejny en lei Noordwaarts in die rigting van Letland. Camino Lituano brei die idee van Weg_van_St.James na Litaue en kan 'n goeie bron wees om verder te gaan as E11.
Via Baltica kan ook 'n alternatief wees. Van Sejny af is daar 'n pad (651) noordwes tot Szypliski op snelweg 8, wat deel uitmaak van die Via Baltica. Alternatiewelik kan u oorsteek na die Litause kant, na Lazdijai en noordwes stap langs plaaslike paaie 134 en 131 na Kalvarija en die pad aansluit daar. Hierdie reisplan is hoofsaaklik vir bestuurders en u het waarskynlik nie 'n motor saamgeneem op u staptog nie, maar dit is steeds moontlik om langs die snelweë te loop. Fietsry is teoreties moontlik, hoewel gevaarliker. Sowat 800 km en drie Baltiese lande later kom jy in Tallinn.